The Goodwood Hotel is a fantastic countryside escape for so many reasons, which you can read about here, but one of the best aspects of the hotel is the newly launched Farmer, Butcher, Chef restaurant…
The restaurant itself is stepped in history, dating back to 1780 and was once a coaching in used to accommodate the many guests of Goodwood House.
Farmer, Butcher, Chef is located just a few yards away from Home Farm and was inspired by the relationship between farmer Tim Hassell, butcher John Hearn and chef Darron Bunn. The trio work together to create an incredibly diverse menu that showcases the best meat in terms of flavour and quality. They take great care in the process of preparing the meat using things like meat grinder replacement parts when necessary to ensure the highest possible quality. Goodwood has been farmed by the family for more than three hundred years and is one of the only self-sustaining organic farms in Europe, which enables the farmer to produce the best tasting beef, pork and lamb.
We got a chance to sit down with Chef Darron and Farmer Tim to learn more about the concept behind Farmer, Butcher, Chef. They told us that every single part of the animals are used and the availability of the produce truly does dictate the menu. They also take great care in the well-being of the animals. They also supply many cuts of meat to the Ritz in London and are very selective about who they supply to as it’s important to them to only work with companies that share their same values. With all of this in mind, it’s not surprising that Farmer, Butcher, Chef has already been one of the first to receive the Royal Academy of Culinary Arts ‘Sustainable Philosophy Seal.’
They also said that Farmer, Butcher, Chef is all about simplicity and going back to traditional techniques of cooking meat, which in my opinion, was quite refreshing. You won’t see the food come out in a dramatic fashion with a layer of dry ice drifting over it, but what you will get is simple, fresh, out-of-this-world delicious dishes that will leave a lasting impression. We asked them what the most underrated cut of meat was, and surprisingly they mentioned the Pork Collar.
From the moment we stepped into Farmer, Butcher, Chef I was enamoured with it. I have always been a huge fan of farmhouse interior decor and the restaurant’s interior design was stunning, cosy and embodied what Farmer, Butcher, Chef is all about. From the dark wood floors and tables, to the mismatched plaid chairs, and all of the knick knacks on the walls, this was by far one of the most charming restaurants I’ve been too. Can I move in, please?
Isn’t it beautiful? The food though – equally as stunning. We started off our spectacular dinner with a bottle of Bolney Pinot Noir, a local vineyard in West Sussex. A delicious, medium-bodied wine with notes of cherry and and hint of oak – it’s an ideal wine to drink with dark meats. We enjoyed fresh, out-of-the-oven bread with salted butter to whet our appetites whilst we looked over the menu. Farmer, Butcher, Chef is able to control every aspect of the produce and the butcher designs the dishes depending on what cuts of meat are available that day. All of the ingredients used are also from local suppliers, so every thing you eat on the menu is local to West Sussex.
All of the starters sounded incredible, think Venison Tartar, Crispy Oysters, Beer braised lamb belly, etc. We went with our server’s recommendations, which didn’t disappoint, including this Crusted Beef Shin with British crayfish, tarragon and chanterelles. The beef itself was incredibly tender and just broke apart as soon as you dove in with your fork. It was a stunning dish packed with natural flavours that we couldn’t get enough of.
We also shared the Oregano Rubbed Pig Jowl with fennel, walnut and raisin slaw, which I loved The fresh, fruity flavours of the slaw, cut the saltiness of the tender and juicy pig jowl. I had never had Pig Jowl before and really enjoyed this cut of meat – the fat was rendered down and the meat itself was packed with flavour.
All of the menu is phenomenal, you would really have to go back about 5 times to try everything you’d want to. In a bid to try as much as we could in one sitting, we went for one of their legendary Butcher’s Boards, which is a great try some of those unique cuts of meats Chef Darron told us about. You can choose from Lamb, Beef or Pork and we went for the Beef. You know that saying “your eyes are bigger than your stomach,” well such is the case here, but it’s inevitable – it all just looks so good – and it is. In all honesty, three people could have shared the Butcher’s board, there was so much meat to choose from.
The butcher’s board comes with charcoal skirt steak, sticky Jacob’s ladder, oxtail faggot, crispy tongue, marrow crusted ox cheek, truffle celeriac gratin and dripping confit potatoes.
We also got a side of Winter Greens and Hazelnut butter, which I’ve got to say, is the best dressing to drizzle on any salad.
I really cannot say enough positive things about ALL of the meat. The skirt steak was cooked to perfection, more on the rare side but I always have it cooked the way the chef recommends. The sticky Jacob’s ladder (beef short rib) was a magnificent cut of meat that seemed to be slow cooked and fell right off the bone. t was my favourite of all the meat we tried.
The braised oxtail faggot was another highlight. The rich, demi-glaze sauce that it was marinated in was excellent. Let’s just say, I wasn’t sharing this little morsel of goodness with Ciaran.
The Crispy Tongue was unusual, but don’t knock it ’til you try it! It was a quite unusual texture, but I still rather enjoyed it – go for it. The dripping confit potatoes were the best I’ve ever had. We did almost order another portion, but I’m glad we didn’t because I nearly went into a meat coma after our meal.
We sat for a while and recuperated after what was a meal for the books, before tucking into our desserts (yes, there is always room for pudding).
Our server suggested this heavenly Milk & Praline Bar with salted almonds and dark chocolate. It was the perfect balance of sweet and salty and a welcoming treat after our meat-laden meal.
Ciaran went for this gorgeous Bramley Apple Crumble Soufflé that was absolutely delightful. The soufflé itself was light and creamy and the apple crumble was divine. I loved it. When we go back, we are going to get the cheeseboard because all of the cheese is made right there at Goodwood, which would be really interesting to try.
The entire meal was exceptional, but what resonates with me even more is Farmer, Butcher, Chef’s commitment to sustainability. I personally like knowing where the meat and produce I eat comes from and how they are being raised and treated. I really like their environmental approach of using local and seasonal produce, not letting any go to waste, and having a very strong ethical approach to handling the animals, butchery and cooking. I think more restaurants need to adopt these philosophies and stick by them.
I am so happy that I had the opportunity to dine at this very special restaurant and learn more about sustainability. The food is phenomenal, the interior is gorgeous and the values are all ones that I am personally on board with. It was an incredibly memorable and special dinner.
Thank you Farmer, Butcher, Chef for the warm hospitality. We will be back!
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